Beer Review: Ommegang’s Hennepin Farmhouse Saison

Beer has a long connection to saints and holy figures. In The Beer Option, I discuss the beer miracles of St. Brigid of Kildare, St. Columban, and St. Arnold, St. Hildegard’s description of beer’s medicinal qualities, and St. Conrad of Bavaria’s hospitality in serving beer to pilgrims.

The Ommegang brewery continues this tradition with its Hennepin saison, in honor of Fr. Louis Hennepin. The brewery continiues many other traditions as well: its name representing the great festivals of Brussels and its translation of traditional Belgian brewing into the United States. Founded in 1996 and partially Belgian owned, Ommegang helped to spread the popularity of Belgian style beer in America. It’s website relates its history and the Belgian connection to its site in New York:

Belgian breweries Duvel Moortgat, Affligem, and Scaldis join with importers/entrepreneurs Don Feinberg and Wendy Littlefield to build an authentic Belgian-style farmstead brewery in Cooperstown, NY. They locate this cultural transplant on an old 140-acre hop farm in the Susquehanna River valley, in a part of upstate New York once known as Nova Belgium.

Ommegang continues to spread not only Belgian brewing traditions, but also festivity through its outdoor festivals and concerts and a recently expanded taproom.

A Franciscan Recollect priest, Hennepin has interesting parallels to the brewery. He too hailed from Belgium and came to upstate New York, though as an explorer. At the request of Louis XIV, he first went to New France in 1675 and then on mission to the Mohawks, which led him to Niagara Falls in 1677, the first European, or at least one of the first, to see it.

He then volunteered to sail across the Great Lakes to explore the West. After visiting Illinois, he was captured by the Sioux upon reaching the Mississippi and was taken to Minnesota. After his release, he was sent back to France, where he published books on his discoveries.

The beer is relatively strong at 7.7% ABV, but very drinkable. It offers complex flavors and aromas and a great introduction to Belgian style beer (and I recommend Ommegang’s Three Philosophers for the next step!). Like Fr. Hennepin, Belgian brewers are known for their pioneering spirit and many Americans (at least those who haven’t ventured into craft beer much yet) will be surprised by its use of spices and the flavors that result from its Belgian yeast.

Here is Ommegang’s description of the beer:

THE BEER Inspired by the traditional rustic brews of Belgium, our iconic American farmhouse saison is charmingly complex yet eminently drinkable. Artfully spiced [with ginger, grains of paradise, orange peel, and coriander] and gracefully balanced, its champagne-like effervescence delivers a crisp, dry finish, delighting discerning drinkers everywhere.

TASTING NOTES Hennepin pours a slightly hazy pale straw with a fluffy white head. Aromas of spicy yeast and honey lead to flavors of ginger, toasted grain, and peppery spice. Sparkling carbonation, a pleasant lingering spice, and a crisp dry finish round out our beloved farmhouse ale.

FOOD PAIRINGS While delicious on its own, Hennepin pairs remarkably well with a variety of foods, complementing shellfish, barbecue, cheeses, charcuterie and a wide range of spicy fare.